Polished iKon SBS Razor Head

Matsilainen

Forum GOD!
When I first shaved with the iKon SBS (not sure if this model should still be designated as a ShaveCraft or not), I was sufficiently impressed to immediately order another one.

The SBS is surprisingly efficient for the relatively mild razor that it is. The blade tabs are completely covered (although I honestly don’t mind them in razors that leave them exposed). The open comb side leaves a good bit of lather behind, which I believe was one of the purposes of early open comb designs. And there is a degree of adjustability to the razor, as the base plate can be flipped, and there’s an open comb and a safety bar onboard.

However, for a razor head that is made of some kind of proprietary aluminum alloy, this is a heavy piece of metal. Although it is a relatively smooth shaver, it still requires some attention in order to avoid little nicks and irritation. And then there was the fact that it has a satin finish, whereas most of my razor handles are shiny. Not that that’s a big deal, but it’s nice when things either match or contrast well.

So I decided to polish one of my SBS heads. I did so by hand, using Flitz polish paste and two grades of steel wool: #00 (very fine) and #0000 (super fine). I thought it would be a lengthy process, but surprisingly, I completed most of the work while watching two periods of an ice hockey game. The results aren’t perfect, but I’m quite happy with them. Some pictures follow. The first one shows an unpolished SBS next to my polished one.







 

Chris

Forum DOG!
Staff member
I’m really tempted by one of these but am not sure if I can get past the dual comb design. If they ever do a symmetrical one I’ll be all over it though.
 

Matsilainen

Forum GOD!
Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated!
I’m really tempted by one of these but am not sure if I can get past the dual comb design. If they ever do a symmetrical one I’ll be all over it though.
I hear you on this point. I’d rather have a symmetrical base plate, as well. However, I noticed today that I had faithfully used the open comb for the entire first pass without ever trying to flip the razor. So somehow, the concept seems to have sunken in and is now automatic for me.
 

Chris

Forum DOG!
Staff member
Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated!

I hear you on this point. I’d rather have a symmetrical base plate, as well. However, I noticed today that I had faithfully used the open comb for the entire first pass without ever trying to flip the razor. So somehow, the concept seems to have sunken in and is now automatic for me.
Hmm, might have to give one a go at some point. I'm aware that the base plate is flippable and that it has a cross on one side. Which way up is the milder side?
 

halvor

a most elusive fish
Seems to be consensus about sand paper’s superiority over steel wool for jobs like this, from a little googling, but I nevertheless ordered steel wool in #00 and #0000 from Liberon, have a tube of Flitz at hand already, and will soon be ready to follow your lead, Matt @Matsilainen
 

Matsilainen

Forum GOD!
Hmm, might have to give one a go at some point. I'm aware that the base plate is flippable and that it has a cross on one side. Which way up is the milder side?
Honestly, I can’t tell much of a difference, but there is a difference. To me, flipping the base plate seems to change the properties of the open comb and the safety bar sides separately… (Meaning that one side becomes more aggressive and the other becomes milder.) However, the general consensus seems to be that when the “cross” (or “plus”) is visible on the bottom of the razor head, that is when it is slightly more aggressive. That’s the setting I’ve used the most and have grown accustomed to.

Seems to be consensus about sand paper’s superiority over steel wool for jobs like this, from a little googling, but I nevertheless ordered steel wool in #00 and #0000 from Liberon, have a tube of Flitz at hand already, and will soon be ready to follow your lead, Matt @Matsilainen
Good luck! Take your time, don’t press down hard, and the Flitz should start generating results rather quickly. Even though it is non-toxic, I recommend safety gloves and a well-ventilated area. :)
 
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