sɐǝɹpu∀
riverrun
Resin if you want to spend the money.What material do you recommend to print this wicked wabbit?
I'll start with PLA for prototyping.
Resin if you want to spend the money.What material do you recommend to print this wicked wabbit?
I'm going to take a swing at getting the medium sized bowl printed. I've never done this before. I'm using treatstock.com and am not sure what material I should use. I would prefer something smooth that won't destroy my brush, so not the rough cheap material / finish. Ideally something that won't warp with warm water usage either, but I can work around this if necessary.Ok. Here's my first post on this thread. This lather bowl is one of my earliest designs. I uploaded the files on Thingiverse about two years ago and it has become a popular download. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3392930
I've also uploaded a scuttle version but never printed it.
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I find brushes incredibly boring, but those look nice. A very pleasing shape.I just uploaded the STL file for this MADE RITE 203 shaving brush on Thingiverse
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Shaving brush MADE RITE 203 by rogerquin
This is a Made-Rite 203 shaving brush I recreated a while back. I find this design to be quite unique actually. Once I got my caliper going, I realized that this handle design was breaking all the rules of symmetry, and for good reason. On the original, the bottom section doesn't have a single...www.thingiverse.com
This is a Made-Rite 203 shaving brush I recreated a while back. I find this design to be quite unique actually. Once I got my caliper going, I realized that this handle design was breaking all the rules of symmetry, and for good reason. On the original, the bottom section doesn't have a single true curve and none of the flat faces run in parallel or point to the center of the handle. Instead, the flat sections come to a point far away from the handle. The top section has two vertical seams and the hole for the knot is slightly bigger at the bottom. What all this means is that the handle went through an incredible amount of machining just to accommodate the molding process. It seems that the bottom section can only be ejected from the mold in a vertical direction, and the top section comes off the mold horizontally as a half. The two halves are then fused together to form the top half making it possible for the hole to taper to a larger diameter at the bottom. Long story short, I'll be using this little piece of plastic with a newfound respect for yesterday's artisans and machinist.
Like most of my designs, this is a high-res, high poly count STL. If you want to get the most out of this design on FDM printers, set the minimum segment-length to the smallest setting and don't use auto-merge of nearby lines in your slicer. For SLA printers, print with 100% infill. It will cost more, but it will have a nice weight and feel.
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Original on left.
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That's awesome! I'm curious. Do you get to choose some of the parameters when ordering? By parameters, I mean the number of walls, infill percentage, location of the seam, layer height, etc.I'm going to take a swing at getting the medium sized bowl printed. I've never done this before. I'm using treatstock.com and am not sure what material I should use. I would prefer something smooth that won't destroy my brush, so not the rough cheap material / finish. Ideally something that won't warp with warm water usage either, but I can work around this if necessary.
Go play around with the site and you will see. Sadly, I can't find a vendor nearby, and the cost of shipping is often as much or more than the price of printing the object itself. But no, there doesn't seem to be detail to the extent that you're referring to.That's awesome! I'm curious. Do you get to choose some of the parameters when ordering? By parameters, I mean the number of walls, infill percentage, location of the seam, layer height, etc.
On treatstock you can contact the maker before ordering.Go play around with the site and you will see. Sadly, I can't find a vendor nearby, and the cost of shipping is often as much or more than the price of printing the object itself. But no, there doesn't seem to be detail to the extent that you're referring to.
Now that's what I call clever. I like that, despite it using the wrong bladesYet another ongoing project. Although near-final, I keep tweaking the head trying to make it possible to print without supports. Once final, I will print caps with different angles so I can change the blade gap from mild to aggressive.
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Thanks! I used basic PLA for head and tip, and carbon fiber PLA for the grip.Pretty impressive looking.
Have i missed what material you are using there?
Lol. Well, I also have a GEM style and a streamline the uses injector blades. Do they qualify?Now that's what I call clever. I like that, despite it using the wrong blades
And the colour scheme is right up my street.

Thanks, the cap doesn't snap on. It works like an inverted key-slot. To mount, you insert the cap and blade off-center then slide in place to lock. The tension from the blade clamp and two registration points in the center create a very positive grip.I like the lather channels, but this won’t clamp the blade for blade rigidity. The snap on top cap is clever. I guess if it gets loose over time, easy to replace the relevant parts?
I'm a bit of an SE razor nerd. So, yes they do qualify.Lol. Well, I also have a GEM style and a streamline the uses injector blades. Do they qualify?![]()